Acid Staining

How Acid Staining Works

Surface Preparation
The first step is to remove any grass from the edges of the concrete. Edging keeps grass and debris out of the concrete stain. Next any oil spots or grease spots on the concrete will be cleaned with a concrete cleaner or degreaser.

What About Surface Cracks?
Cracks in concrete can be removed only by properly replacing the concrete. Even then it could still improperly crack. The Best way to Deal with thees culprits is to be FLEXIBLE.

Flexible materials stretch and compress. If dirt, debris and water is kept out of the crack, the crack is less likely to get wider.Therefore, we carefully fill moving cracks with concrete gray flexible polyurethane caulking. Some moisture cure polyurethane caulking compounds do not require absolutely dry concrete so caulking could be done while the slab is drying.
Note: It is not always beneficial to repair flaws in the concrete. Many concrete flaws end up looking like normal imperfections in the "brick" surface.

Staining Your Concrete Surface
Pigmented Stain
Most concrete must be acid etched because a porous surface is required for the stain to flow into the pores of the concrete and bond well. Etching is accomplished by applying a solution of Muriatic acid and water. A smooth troweled finish on the concrete will need a stronger solution than a coarse broomed finish. Some older concrete or concrete that has a coarse broomed finish may not need acid etching but just a thorough washing. Then we use a pressure washer and a specially constructed high pressure concrete deck washer to thoroughly rinse the concrete. After thoroughly cleaning the concrete, it must be allowed to dry. How dry, depends on the stain to be used and the weather. Drying time typically ranges from a couple of hours 2 days depending upon conditions. When using a Pigmented Stain we roll it on liberally so it will soak in, bond well and color deeply, therefore pigmented stains typically require longer drying times.

Acid Stains
We use Acid Stains to create soft, earth tone color shades on cured concrete surfaces similar to the effects of tiles, marble and patinas. This technique is ideal for interior floors because acid stained concrete surfaces are easy to clean and require little maintenance when properly sealed and waxed. Acid Staining is a cost effective alternative to more expensive flooring materials such as hardwood floors, tiles or carpet. This process requires a clear coat.

Final Clear Coat
When specified, a thin clear protective coat will be applied on the completed concrete pattern. This will give the concrete the appearance of being colored through it's entire thickness, the edges of the slab are also stained. Clear coats will increase the life, longevity and beauty of your project by providing UV protection and oil resistence. There are many clear coat products to chose from, we will gladly advise you on the appropriate clear coat to your application. We generally need between 4 and 12 hours to clear coat an average driveway or patio. Curing time to walk on a solvent based stain or clear coat is about an hour or less depending on the temperature and humidity
Note: Many jobs are completed without a clear coat. Clear coats provide a final protective clear finish and will make the project more attractive with brighter colors that last longer.

Care and Maintenance
Ordinary dirt and grime can be removed by rinsing with a garden hose. For stubborn areas, use a push broom to loosen dirt. Mineral deposits from hard water should be washed off on a regular basis to prevent stubborn build up. Fresh oil drippings can be wiped off the surface with a rag or paper towel. Tire marks, oil stains, crayon marks, and all other tough stains may be removed by using Simple Green®, or Fast Orange Hand Cleaner® and a soft bristle brush or cloth. Rinse thoroughly after cleaning.
* DO NOT use a wire brush to scrub surface.
* DO NOT use paint thinners, acids, or any type of solvent on the surface.


“Wow!
I can't beleive this is the same concrete.”

– Billy, Rocklin , CA